gordoBloggo 1, March 4, 2011
the last few days, i've been getting up early to go surf before starting work. it's been cold and gross. i go to a little piece of beach where no one else surfs. i hate crowds. it's a crappy little beach break that will drill your head into the sand when it's a foot tall. i call the spot "scraps."
i'm not that skilled at surfing, so scraps is teaching me some life lessons about patience and timing and things looking better than they really are. the wave is quick, random and fairly technical. because of this, i've taken a beating, but have also pulled into some teeny little closeout barrels that roll me up on the beach like a dead walrus everytime. it's incredibly fun and the main reason i go to scraps...to see if i can get in the tube (even if it's only on a 2-foot wave). the other reason i frequent scraps is because no one else will even look at it. there has never been another soul in the water with me. i've never seen anyone out there when i drive by to go somewhere else. there are longer and better waves within eye-sight of scraps, but no one gives it a second thought and i'm glad for that. the solitude is the best part of the experience.
ankle high scraps sometime in january or february during rain. it just looks bad ass and if you were 6-inches tall, you'd be stoked.
knee-high scraps about a month ago. looking sweet, just too small.
video still from a couple days ago with the gopro chesty mount. angle didn't work but it was fun to try. it was like 38 degrees (air temp) when i got in the water...gross.
a little life lesson on video. it was too big for me to surf, so i thought i'd swim and try to get some barrel shots with the gopro. i'd done it when it was half this size. bad idea, especially w/o flippers. the waves were solid head high and heavy. the current was strong. i couldn't get outside of the set waves. i got ice cream headaches from going under. i was too scared. i'm too fat and i got rolled (you'll see what i mean in the last clip LOL). scraps let me live this time, LOL.