2010 Specialized Big Hit Tightwad Enduro Build 33.2lbs. 29

2135 of 8162

Vital MTB member silvbullit
16976 silvbullit http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/16976/avatar/c50_DSCF6926.jpg?1366261258 http://www.vitalmtb.com/community/silvbullit,16976/all 07/09/12 1 53 http://www.vitalmtb.com/community/silvbullit,16976/setup 4 87
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Parts Brand Model Additional info
Frame Specialized Big Hit 2010 Modified link for air shock. 190mm Travel
Rear Shock Fox Racing Shox DHX Air 5.0 8.5" x 2.5" Maxima 10w shock oil, Boost valve @ least bottom out and 130psi. Cut up gear oil bottle volume spacer in HV outer can. The way DHX should feel.
Fork Fox Racing Shox 36 Talas 180 RC2 FIT Updated SKF Seals, Non-Kashima because its cheaper and just as buttery. Extra bath oil because Fox ships it nearly dry.
Headset Syncros Tapered
Handlebar Kore Mega
Stem Kore Repute 50mm
Grips Lizard Skins Peaty non-lockon safety wire for locking
Brakes Formula 2011 RX 200mm front 180mm rear
Brake Levers Formula 2011 RX
Shifters Shimano LX 9 Speed
Front Derailleur Shimano SLX M660/661 Front Derailleur
Rear Derailleur Shimano XTR Shadow Mid carbon cage
Chainguide Blackspire Stinger
Cranks Shimano SLX 10-speed 24T, 36T
Chainrings / Sprocket Shimano SLX/XT Steel inner, XT outer/middle
Bottom Bracket Shimano SLX
Chain KMC 9 Speed Super light Gold
Cassette / Rear Cog Shimano XTR 9-Speed 11-34T w/Ti cogs on large carrier
Pedals Crank Brothers Mallet 2 Three seasons of abuse and no problems
Front Rim Velocity Blunt 35 Self-built
Rear Rim Velocity Blunt 35 Almost already toast...soft rim
Hubs Hope Hope Pro 2 Evo 10mm Thru-axle rear with DT Swiss RWS Axle
Spokes Wheelsmith 14g Double butted Red Wheelsmith Alloy Nips
Front Tire Maxxis 2.35 Minion DHR 2 EXO 949 Racing Aluminum Tubless stems, automotive bead sealer and Automotive Slime with 25% liquid latex
Rear Tire Maxxis 2.35 Minion DHR 2 EXO 949 Racing Aluminum Tubless stems, automotive bead sealer and Automotive Slime with 25% liquid latex
Saddle Fizik Anteres Carbon
Seatpost Gravity Dropper Turbo LP 3-position, Tube safety wired to replace boot, "Green Grease" waterproof high viscosity grease slows return.
Seatpost Clamp Other Some light clamp
General Info
Model Year 2010
Riding Type Trail / All-Mountain
Weight 33 lb 4 oz (15082 g)
Additional Info Weighed with pedals, Pounded for two years since the build with no issues. Ridden up and ridden down with a grin.
29 comments
  • williamkljr

    2/13/2015 11:11 AM

    I have this bike and was wondering if it is compatible with ten speed systems????

  • taylor

    2/16/2015 5:23 AM

    as far as i know, you just need a 10s derailer set a 10s chain and 10s casette and a crank that works with 10s. Otherwise there is no diference.

  • luptakt

    11/4/2014 4:04 AM

    thanks for reply, I use single crown tapered fork. What I have now is also mix&match. upper isn't recognizable, but lower is FSA Orbit, I guess. I didn't want to remove it prior I have new headset, but obviously I'll have no other option...

    it's shame that there isn't exact info on the specialized web site...

    I'll try to get offer on factory headsets from my dealer, but I'm worried it would be like twice the price of any aftermarket headset...

  • taylor

    11/4/2014 6:38 AM

    In my case, the price for the complete Specialized factory (upper&bottom pieces) headset would have been around 65$, (I really wasn't satisfied with them, they gave up quite easily and quickly)
    The price for the Gusset headset was around 75$

    You might as well think of getting an EC (External Cartridge) lower cup, which makes the headtube angle more similar to the factory 65,5° (provided by double crown forks).
    I've just bought a lyrik solo air (170mm) and I kind of feel the need for a bit less angle on the headtube.
    Good luck with all of it.

  • luptakt

    11/4/2014 12:07 PM

    gooood. what is the Gusset headset you've got, the mix/match you talked about, is my last question and I'll be happy. :D cheers.

  • taylor

    11/6/2014 5:21 AM

    Well it is called the mix&match. It actually means that you can buy different sizes of upper and lower headset parts separately. In case you have a tepered steerer tube, I can't really give you a nuke proof advice, since I'm using the standard 1 1/8 tube. My service guy seemed to know exactly what I needed, but when he tried to install the ordered part, it turned out that it was just too wide to fit, so he ordered a new one (which took for ever since no one gives a thing about bikes here during the winter, but when spring came, the correct part arrived and it's working fine ever since.

  • luptakt

    7/31/2015 2:54 AM

    for everyone who needs this. after all, there is exact setup of headset for tapered fork at big hit. as I haven't found it anywhere clearly stated. there are 2 options. 1st is EC34/EC49, 2nd is EC34/ZS49.

  • luptakt

    11/6/2014 5:32 AM

    I understand what does mix&match means. I was hopping you give me type of the upper and lower part. :D but as you use 1 1/8" fork it's irrelevant for me. shame.

  • taylor

    11/7/2014 6:47 AM

    lupakt!
    If you live in a more civilized country than I do (Hungary is the place), the least that your bikepart dealer should do, is taking the risk of ordering buth the lower cups, which could match the bike and have the incorrect one back to the retailer.
    Even my dealer did like that, and here, every penny is a subject of serious bargain. (That is the real shame)

    But like I wrote, the upper cup in my bike is a EC34/28.6.
    And to find out the correct dimensions for the lower cup for a tapered tube you should probbably check out the link below:
    http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/10-degree-ec34---zs49-198-p.asp

    Peace

  • luptakt

    11/9/2014 11:42 PM

    unfortunately I do not live in more civilized country, and I do know what you're talking about (and this place is your neighbor, Slovakia), where everything costs twice as much as on the foreign online shops... so I'm not willing to pay 150 for crappy headset from any bike shop as they don't care what they sell when they can't charge you for replacement as well. you have no idea how everything is expensive here. We do shop abroad if possible. Even in Austria most things are cheaper and with higher quality.

  • taylor

    11/11/2014 12:13 AM

    I often visit the Ruzomberok bike park and prices seems to be pretty good there
    However, I can give you a contact to my service dude, who also often appears in Ruzomberok. The delivery cost from here to there, shouldn't be too much. I was thinking of getting a tapered fork (after all I bought the standard 1 1/8) but when I asked him a couple of weeks ago, he said he had a 1 1/2 lower ZS cup for the '11 big hit.
    Let me know if I can help you.

  • taylor

    11/4/2014 3:53 AM

    Hi,
    I'm using a Gusset mix&match upper and lower headset, they seem to be sweet as pie in my 2011 Big Hit with a fork having an 1 1/8 steerer tube
    http://www.gussetbikes.com/products-information.php?id=HDGUBE34
    The lower cup I beleive is a ZS49/30, and the upper cup is an EC34/28,6 (but I have to check the exact sizes at home)
    Make sure you get the Zero Stack version, otherwise you might find the crowns (if double crown fork is used) and the steerer tube too short. How ever I've found that with the new headset (and teh new SGC), the overall length of the headtube has increased by 5 mm-s which just might be enough to ruin it for you.
    Also the local specialized dealer had a reasonable offer on factory Specialized headset parts.

  • luptakt

    11/4/2014 12:56 AM

    Hi, would you please tell me exactly what headset you used? I'm struggling to find suitable headset for my big hit 2011. Everywhere they ask me internal tube dimension but I don't want to remove the headset sooner as I have new one. i can't believe nobody know exactly. I asked few companies making headsets as well as Specialized themselves and no luck...

  • taylor

    10/13/2014 4:38 AM

    Hi. I'd like to replace my coil spring shock to a fox float air shock in a 2011 big hit. Could you help me with what parts should be modified an in what way? The answer would help a lot. Tahnks.

  • silvbullit

    10/13/2014 6:10 AM

    If you use a standard float R or RP23 that doesn't have a piggyback reservoir you don't need to do anything except mount it with the air can toward the front. 8.5x2.5 and try to find a heavier damping rate since the bike has a high leverage ratio.

  • taylor

    10/13/2014 7:32 AM

    Thanks for the help. Will try to copy your concept. Just love it.

  • taylor

    11/9/2014 6:26 AM

    Hi,
    I just bought a dhx 5.0, to replace the coil shock on my big hit. Couldn't replace it yet, but could you please let me know what do you mean by modified link? What exactly is the "link" you modified and what was the modification?
    The link below shows an image on the 5th page, according to that you could explain to me whta I should do.
    http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/FSR---2011-BigHit-FSR-Manual.pdf
    My fear is that the bottom part of the shock seems to be too close to the frame's link part.
    Is it possible that I have to rasp it out a bit? That sounds a little drastic, doesn't it?

  • silvbullit

    11/10/2014 9:46 PM

    You will need to remove alot of material from the rocker link that connects to the shock to make room for the air can. The only real way to explain where to remove material to for you to try to insall the shock and see where material needs to be removed. I took alot of material off and have pounded the bike hard with no signs of fatigue. The area that gets removed is not under any stress in any situation anyway. But yes you do grind a substantial amount of material away.

  • luptakt

    7/31/2015 2:56 AM

    I came across this problem just now.
    guys if you still have this bike
    @silvbullit - would you please add some detailed photo of the link?
    @taylor - if you went for DHX 5 Air, would you please send you photo too?

    it would be very appreciated.
    Thanks

  • taylor

    11/11/2014 12:03 AM

    Thanks for the valueable feedback. I got wiser.

  • The Shark

    9/15/2013 3:00 AM

    Sick build man, this is similar to what I'm aiming for with my big hit except 10 spd at the back and no derailleur at the front. Just waiting on dropper seatpost to arrive, then need to make a decision on which shock, and if theres any money left, some wheels.

  • The Shark

    9/15/2013 3:02 AM

    Oh, also, what do you have holding your dropper post cable in place along the top tube?

  • silvbullit

    9/15/2013 9:10 PM

    Thanks, I love the bike so far. It just takes a beating. I have had great luck with the DHX air except the bike has a high leverage ratio so I had to play with it a little but it feels plush as hell right now. It takes alot of air pressure tho, usually around 230psi at least. So far no seal issues. I used adhesive cable guides and so far they have worked well. Not gorgeous, but they are functional.

  • marko.simic.94214508

    5/8/2013 10:06 AM

    How did you get 200mm of travel?
    did you buy the shock with huge stroke or?

  • silvbullit

    6/5/2013 9:37 AM

    My bad, the frame has 190mm travel with a 2.5" stroke shock so the 200mm I had originally listed was a failure of my memory.

  • silvbullit

    4/23/2013 8:27 PM

    Thanks for the nod guys! The bummer is that I can't use the bike as an excuse anymore...

  • SlickShoe671

    4/23/2013 9:41 AM

    Thats what i'm talking about! Smart build.

  • cliff.hardle

    4/23/2013 7:57 AM

    I had one of these I thought of doing the same thing but ended up getting a reign x which doesn't dh as well. It's cool to see it worked and makes me a bit sad I didn't do the same thing.

  • iceman2058

    4/23/2013 12:57 AM

    Bike of the Day April 23, 2013!