iceman2058's Product Reviews

TESTED: FLY Default Helmet - Affordable Protection

Rating:

The Good:

The Bad:

Overall:

Review by Johan Hjord // Images by Tal Rozow and Johan Hjord

Established in 1996, FLY Racing began as a manufacturer of motorcycle handlebars and helmets, and they remain heavily focused on powersports to this day. They offer a broad catalogue covering everything from riding apparel to protection and even grips and handlebars, and the company counts a few high profile Supercross riders on its roster – Trey Canard and Andrew Short both ride for the brand. More recently, FLY introduced a mountain bike specific range of products, and we were keen to lay our hands on their bike-specific full face helmet to see how it stacks up in a competitive market.

A Word On Helmets

You sometimes hear, "If you have a $100 head, then run a $100 helmet," and while we certainly don’t think that protection is something you should skimp on, such generalizations are overly simplistic. The truth is that mountain biking remains a relatively accessible sport – buying second hand bikes and parts can see you up a hill on 2 wheels faster than you can say “overdraft” or “paper round”, and you need an option for buying adequate protection at a reasonable price before launching your new (to you) steed down said hill. This is where a helmet like the Default comes in – at $109.95 MSRP, it is not trying to take on some of the high-end helmets we’ve tested recently, but rather it’s aimed at riders on a budget.

From a point of view of protection, we’re not saying that the innovation that goes into the design of high-end equipment is negligible – because it’s not. Putting serious R&D effort into understanding how different materials and design aspects can be used to counter the effects of impact forces, developing features for easy helmet removal or specific compatibility with neck braces, or simply manufacturing to higher quality standards will all translate into better protection for the rider. At the same time, you are paying 4x the price for something that may not deliver exponentially better protection, at least not to the same degree. Or to put it another way – you get way more for your money, relatively speaking, when you upgrade from no helmet to a $100 helmet, compared to the $100 to $400 helmet upgrade. We can’t all afford cars with 8 airbags, even though it’s clear that they are more likely to save your life in a crash than your still street legal 20-year old car with maybe just the one.

To help us sleep at night, this is where standards come in. In North America, helmets must meet the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) standard for bicycle helmets, which basically ensures that the helmet will provide adequate impact protection, and will not come off in a crash (it is worth noting that manufacturers self-certify under this standard). The Default helmet we are reviewing here meets this standard, and as such, you know that it fulfils the basic requirements for personal protection. (Note that there are many other standards out there, some more onerous than others – but at present, this is the mandatory one). Now read on to find out what else we thought of it.

Initial Impressions

When you pull the Default out of the box, you’re met with quite an impressive looking helmet. The brand’s moto roots are obvious, the helmet would not look out of place at a SX race. The graphics (applied under clearcoat) are bold and the styling of the helmet is aggressive – looking at the helmet makes you want to go ride your bike. The helmet is not too heavy, especially given its bulky appearance – our size L sample weighed in at 1200 grams (which is competitive amongst non-carbon full face helmets of similar design).

Where the difference with more expensive helmets becomes obvious is in the general build quality. Our helmet was not very well finished off, there were a couple of noticeable flaws such as slight chipping of paint or poorly applied graphics in one area. Additionally, one side of the rubber guard around the facial opening was not properly glued on, something that was easily remedied with a drop of glue, but not something you feel happy about on a brand new helmet.

Main Features

• Aerodynamic poly-alloy shell
• 21 cooling vents
• Removable and washable liner and cheek pads
• Padded chin strap with a D-ring closure
• Aluminum visor screws
• CSPC certified EPS foam liner
• Youth and Adult sizes available in four colorways
• $109.95 MSRP

On The Trail

The fit of the Default is on the snug side of “standard” sizing – in other words, true to your measured size just slightly tight when new. The liner is quite thick which gives the helmet a very padded-out feel, not dissimilar to moto helmets in general. The helmet works well with goggles - we tested ours with several models of goggles without any trouble.

You can feel the liner move around a bit when you pull the helmet on, but there is no unwanted movement while riding. The helmet stays put, regardless of what you’re hitting on the way down. Furthermore, the hardware that holds the visor (i.e. the two screws on the side and the screw used to adjust the visor angle) use rubber washers that help keep things quiet as well as secure – unlike certain other helmets we’ve ridden in, these screws don't require constant surveillance to make sure they stay snug.

The Default has 21 cooling vents. Despite the impressive number, none of them are the more advanced cooling ducts built into the EPS liner per se, and with a relatively thick liner it’s not the coolest helmet out there. You’ll probably be removing it on the chairlift a lot. Not to worry though, the liner and cheekpads can be easily removed and washed, and are easy to put back in again once dry.

The finish of the helmet is quite resistant to scratches and wear in general - ours still looks good after a couple of months of testing. We’ve managed to avoid any major dirt sampling exercises while testing the Default, so we can’t provide any real world feedback on impact protection, but we certainly felt safe while riding in it, and never thought twice about whether or not it would be up to the job at hand if needed.

If you run a neck brace, note that the Default works well with one, it is cut quite high in the back which allows for good range of motion with a brace on.

The D-ring system used to adjust the chinstrap works well, and includes a nice touch in the form of a snap button that secures the end of the strap, keeping it from flapping around.

Things That Could Be Improved

While the overall look and feel of the Default is quite nice, it is let down by somewhat poor workmanship. It could certainly earn a higher star rating based on looks and performance on the trail, if the general build quality was to improve. We realize it’s a helmet for those on a budget, but even so, at this price point there are several other options that offer higher build quality out of the box, although they may not look as flashy.

What’s The Bottom Line?

Can you buy a good helmet for $100? The answer is certainly yes. Can you buy one that really looks the business, is comfortable, works well, and offers a good set of basic features, still at $100? The answer is again yes. The FLY Default ticks all of these boxes, which is nice to see at this price point – we just wish they would pay a little more attention to detail on the assembly line. In short, we don’t wholeheartedly recommend it, but we have no real reservations either. If you want this look, there is not a lot else out there at $100.

More information at: www.flyracing.com.

Tested: e*thirteen LG1+ Chainguide - Let It Guide You

Rating:

The Good:

The Bad:

Overall:

Review and photos by Johan Hjord

For quite some time, e*thirteen was basically another word for chain retention systems (aka chainguides), and rightfully so – the original e*thirteen guide + bash combos were certainly pushing innovation and design in chain management, and their ubiquitous “Turbocharger” bashrings graced many a bike build, be it at the races or out with mates.

e*thirteen was acquired by and became part of The Hive, a company that was at the time mainly producing cranks, in 2010. The e*thirteen brand was kept alive, and has since then grown to include not only guides but also cranks, wheels, and pedals. e*thirteen is the main brand of The Hive today (which also includes Chub Hubs and revl road bike brakes).

e*thirteen’s current catalogue features 3 main product families, LG1 (Downhill), TRS (Enduro), and XCX (Cross Country). Each family contains cranks, guides, and wheels. Furthermore, several levels are available within each family (Race, Plus, and Base), which ensures that there is essentially an option on offer to suit any application and budget.

We’ve been riding the LG1+ Chainguide together with the LG1+ Cranks and a Guidering chainring for the last couple of months, here is the report on how the combo fared out on the trails (check out our previous review for the verdict on the cranks and the chainring).

The LG1+ Chainguide is a frame/BB mounted chain guide that incorporates a “taco” style bash guard – in other words, it replaces the traditional crank mounted bash ring with a taco shaped guard that sits directly on the guide itself. It is designed for use with a single chain ring, and thus provides a guide block up top as well as a roller at the bottom. It is a well proven design that basically translates to the end of dropped chains.

Main Features

• backplate material: EXA+ Aluminum
• drivetrain protection: DMB (direct mount bashguard)
• sliders: adjustable w/ ring size indicator
• slider hardware: EXA+ captive gold alloy
• lower armature: 3 position adjustable indexed slider
• chainring range: 32-36t or 36-40t
• mounting standard: ISCG’05 (bb w/adp) or ISCG’Old(’03)
• roller: tech 3 stealth idler
• color: white, blackout, Peaty(ISCG05 only)
• weight: 179g
• MSRP: $149.95

Installation

Installing a chainguide has gotten a bit easier over the years, but still requires a bit of fiddling about with spacers etc. Until the day that truly universal standards are adopted across all the manufacturers (very funny), there will always be some adjustability required in these types of designs. Basically, the system comes with a number of different sized spacers/shims that you use to make sure the guide aligns perfectly with the chain ring once it’s all installed on the bike (this allows to adjust for different manufacturer tolerances on the ISCG tabs, facing the BB shell, chainlines, etc). It takes a little bit of trial and error to get it right, but in essence, it is as simple as installing the guide and making sure the chain ring aligns with the idler wheel on the guide. Not aligned = add/remove/change the spacers. (note that the ISCG05 version we ran also comes with a direct BB mount adapter included in the kit).

One very useful aspect of the LG1+ Chainguide is that the guide + idler wheel assembly (basically the bottom half of the guide) can be adjusted to fit specific frame designs. This essentially allows you to move the lower part of the guide to make sure it clears the chainstay and/or lower suspension pivot. On a high single pivot there shouldn’t really be any issues with this, but on multilink bikes it can be another story altogether. The LG1+ offers a Narrow, Regular, and Wide setting to cater to as many frame designs as possible.

Further adjustability is provided to cater for different sizes of chainrings. The LG1+ Chainguide comes in either a 32-36T version, or a 36-40T version. Both the top guide block and the idler wheel are adjustable.

On The Trail

The main objective of a chainguide is obviously to keep the chain on. Most single ring chainguides today achieve this objective faultlessly, so it comes as no surprise that this is also the case here. With a top guideblock and an idler wheel at the bottom, the chain really has nowhere to go. In addition to getting this basic functionality right, the LG1+ also scores points for quiet and smooth running – you can hear the idler wheel but it is not at all at an annoying level. The design of the top guide block ensures that the chain clears the block even when the chain is on the smallest or biggest sprocket on a 10-speed cassette – barely, but it clears it when properly adjusted. We can’t really comment on idler bearing life other than to state that after a few months of winter riding, the bearing is still going strong. It is exposed to the elements where it sits, so we’d expect to have to service and/or replace it regularly…which is not uncommon and not a major issue (note that e*thirteen use very high quality bearings and specifically developed grease to improve longevity).

As for the bashguard – well, we’ve bashed it and it has guarded. It glides over rocks fairly well, and beyond the scuff marks, the material employed seems to be very resistant. It was designed to be a bit flexible and to help absorb impacts (rather than crack and splinter), and so far, this has proven to be the case. E*thirteen call this aspect “IFD” for “Impact Flexure Design” – basically allowing the bash to flex AWAY from the chainring to allow you to finish your race run even after a major impact or even failure of the guide.

We’ve stopped short of trying to break it – especially since you can never really know whether your ISCG tabs will give up the ghost before the guide does...but the guard has certainly stood up to abuse. Note that should you break stuff, most of the main parts are individually replaceable, so at least you should probably never have to buy a whole new guide.

Things That Could Be Improved

We had an issue with a stuck bolt on the idler wheel assembly, which e*thirteen told us was due to a manufacturing error in regards to the type of Loctite used on a batch. They replaced it for us with no fuss. (The stuck bold did not affect performance, only adjustability). Other than that, we have no real suggestions or observations on how to make this a better product.

What’s The Bottom Line?

e*thirteen led the industry in chain management systems, but they have not relied on past glory to keep ahead of the game. Today’s version of the Chainguide offers best-in-class adjustability and it functions exceptionally well. It looks great, and manages to save a bit of weight over previous designs as well (if you want to go even lighter, they offer the LG1r version featuring a carbon backplate which saves close to 20g). It has proven its worth at the highest levels of racing and freeriding in the world, and it’s easy to see why top athletes would not think twice about trusting e*thirteen with their chain management. If you are in the market, the LG1+ should definitely be on you shortlist – and why not complement it with the excellent LG1+ cranks and a Guidering to really set your build off!

More information at: The Hive

Tested: e*thirteen LG1+ Cranks and Guidering

Rating:

The Good:

The Bad:

Overall:

Review and photos by Johan Hjord

e*thirteen is a brand that most people will associate with chain retention systems (aka chainguides), and rightfully so – the original e*thirteen guide and bash combos were certainly among the most innovative designs out there at the time, and could be found on many a bike whether it was at a World Cup race or at weekend warrior basecamp.

In 2010, e*thirteen was acquired by and became part of The Hive, a company that was at the time mainly producing cranks. The e*thirteen brand was kept alive, and has since then grown to include not only guides but also cranks, wheels, and pedals. e*thirteen is the main brand of The Hive today (which also includes Chub Hubs and revl road bike brakes).

e*thirteen’s current catalogue features three main product families, LG1 (Downhill), TRS (Enduro), and XCX (Cross Country). Each family contains cranks, guides, and wheels. Furthermore, several levels are available within each family (Race, Plus, and Base), which ensures that there is essentially an option on offer to suit any application and budget.

We’ve been riding the LG1+ cranks together with a Guidering chainring for the last couple of months. Here is the report on how the combo fared out on the trails (also check out our separate review of the LG1+ Chainguide).

LG1+ Cranks

The LG1+ cranks are impressive straight out of the box. The design is contemporary, and the attention to detail and the level of workmanship is very high. Everything from the materials used to the finish have a quality feel to them, and the way the cranks look had us eager to get them on the bike straight away. Note that the cranks do not come with the BB, so if you forgot to order the appropriate BB you won’t be able to fit anything at all straight away – the main spindle on the LG1+ is 30mm in diameter and won’t fit any other BBs. Perhaps the standout feature (certainly one of the most talked about) on e*thirteen cranks is the crank arm/spindle interface. The “Polygon 3 Lobe Interface” was designed using a German DIN standard that, among other hi-torque applications, is also used for tank transmissions. The idea behind applying this standard is to provide 100% spindle to crank arm surface contact and to avoid the degradation that can occur in splined interfaces. With our tank-like legs we were immediately reassured by this feature.

Main Features

• Arm material: EXA+ Aluminum
• Arm length: 165, 170, 175mm
• Spindle material: EXA+ Aluminum w/ P3 Connect Interface
• Rings: Optional Guiderings / dual Shiftrings
• BB shell: 68/73 or 83mm
• Chainline: 51mm / 56mm
• Color: Blackout w/ gold spindle
• Weight: 721g
• MSRP: $274.95

Installation

The BB (remember that you need to specify and order the correct BB with your cranks) is easy to install. The provided adapter allows you to use a standard Shimano BB tool to tighten the e*thirteen BB, after you check the required number of spacers depending on BB/chainline. You then fit the cranks a first time, tighten down the interface to a certain degree (not fully), check the number of shims (there are numerous shims of different thickness provided with the cranks) required to pre-load the BB bearings, remove the crank arm, add the number of shims required, re-install the crank arm and tighten down to torque spec. If this sounds a bit complicated, it’s not really, it is just a bit tedious and may require a little trial and error to get right. All cranks need to provide some mechanism for adjusting to variances in frame design and such, this system just feels like one of the more clunky ways to address it.

Note: Since we received the cranks for this test, e*thirteen launched “APS,” an “Adaptive Preload System” which does away with the shims in favor of what seems to be a far superior solution – basically a tool-less bearing preload mechanism that allows you to simply install the cranks, torque to spec, and then hand-tighten the APS adjuster until there is no play between the BB and the crank arms. We would have to test the new system as well before expressing our opinion on it, but it certainly appears to be a better solution and one less prone to trial and error. Less wrenching time + more riding time = good.

On The Trail

The gold standard for any cranks is set and forget. The best cranks can literally be left on a bike for years, with little to no maintenance, and will keep going strong through it all. While we have not had years on the LG1+ cranks (so far), we have ridden them hard throughout winter in various conditions, and they haven't required any adjusting or service. The bearings are still running completely smoothly and there is no play either in the crank arm to spindle interface or between the crank and the BB.

Under foot, the cranks feel as stiff and solid as any competitive offering. Whether it be mashing the pedals up a climb or slamming the bike down after a clumsy drop, these cranks don't flex. At all. Bashing the pedals and crank arm ends into rocks and other obstacles also did little to no harm – even the surface finish seems to hold up exceptionally well to abuse. The graphics on the cranks arms themselves are beginning to show the traditional wear from the shoes rubbing against them, but this occurs on all cranks and here it seems to be very moderate if anything.

Things That Could Be Improved

We are not fans of the shim-based bearing pre-load system – and apparently neither were e*thirteen, since they have just introduced a new system for adjusting the preload (mentioned above). With that taken care of, we see very little room for improvement elsewhere on these cranks. We had some minor issues with the chain ring bolts working themselves loose over time – this shouldn't happen when properly torqued, but keep an eye on it nevertheless as we saw it once or twice (a drop of Loctite will bring peace of mind here).

Guidering Chainrings

e*thirteen’s Guidering was specifically designed for single chain ring setups. This means it lacks the shifting ramps machined into the teeth that allow the chain to move easily between chain rings on a traditional dual or triple crankset. This also means it does a great job of keeping the chain on and pedals very smoothly.

Main features

• Ring material: EXA+ Aluminum
• Thickness: 4mm
• Bolt circle diameter: 104bcd
• Compatibility: 8, 9, 10, 11 speed
• Ring sizes: 32-33-34-35-36-37-38-39-40
• Colors: Silver, green, red, gold, blackout, blue purple
• Weight: 30-61g (the 34t weighs 43g)
• MSRP: $39.95

On The Trail

Fitting the chainring was easy, the part is manufactured to fine tolerances and well finished. The colors are great, and the intricate machining looks good and helps keep the weight down. Note that we ordered separate chainring bolts to add extra bling – they come standard in black with the cranks. The ring holds the chain very well thanks to the ramped design of the teeth and the part of the ring that contacts the chain. Furthermore, it's compatible with 8, 9, or 10 speed chains – we tested ours both on 9 and 10-speed setups with no issues to report. Pedaling the bike is quiet and smooth.

The anodizing looks good and is durable. The color has started to wear off on the teeth after the miles we’ve put in on the ring, but this is to be fully expected and does not cause any performance degradation. The graphics are equally solid and don't show any signs of wearing off any time soon.

The ring is available in sizes ranging from 32 to 40 teeth in singe tooth increments, which means you can fine tune your setup to the degree required. We ran a 34T on a 10-speed setup with 11-36t cogs on the cassette, which is a versatile combo allowing for both climbing and descending on just one chainring.

In summary, the Guidering is a solid part, perfectly matched to the LG1+ Cranks (but it can of course be mated to any other standard cranks as well). It looks great, performs flawlessly, and should last you a long time.

What’s The Bottom Line?

e*thirteen has put a lot of innovation and development effort into their product lines, and it really shows on the LG1+ family of products. These components have proven their worth time and time again at World Cup racing level, and we are happy to report that they are also exceptionally well suited to everyday trail hacking use and abuse. The cranks offer stiffness and robustness in a design that saves weight and performs perfectly, and with the recent addition of the Adaptive Preload System they should be “fit-and-forget” easy to install and set up as well. Complement your cranks with the excellent Guidering (and why not the LG1+ Chainguide as well) to really set your build off!

More information at The Hive.

Tested: Royal Racing Signature Glove - Tougher Than You Think

Rating:

The Good:

The Bad:

Overall:

Review and pictures by Johan Hjord

Gloves have been part of the offering from Royal Racing for many years, and for 2013, the range is wider than ever. There’s a glove for every condition and every personal preference. The Signature Glove has been around since 2011 - it's Royal’s go-to glove for riders who prefer a very thin and lightweight glove. We laid our hands on (and put them in!) the 2013 edition to see how it would hold up to a couple of months’ worth of abuse.

For 2013, Royal has taken a step back towards somewhat calmer styling on many of their clothing items, which carried over to the Signature Glove design, too. They come in either white or black, with inverted highlights respectively. They look simple, but there are quite a few well thought-out features that complement the clean design:

Royal Racing Signature Glove Highlights

• Ultra-thin and light 2.2 polyester mesh back of hand
• Weightless sublimated graphic
• Low profile slip on Neoprene cuff with expander v-panel
• Micro direct inject logo
• 0.5mm digital Clarino palm
• Micro fiber thumb wipe
• 2/2 mesh fourchettes
• Sticky silicon print finger tips
• MSRP $34.95

On The Trail

The most important aspects of any glove to consider are fit, function, protection, and durability. In terms of the first two, these gloves are very comfortable and certainly have that “second skin” feel to them. They are preformed, which means they are curved towards the shape of the handlebar when you grip it – there is no excess material in the palm area that could bulk up and become bothersome. Because the palm material is very thin, the glove offers excellent feedback through the hands, and the grip is also very good – even when soaking wet.

The snot/sweat wipe areas on both gloves (on the thumb area) is a welcome feature, often overlooked on many gloves – it only becomes obvious how useful this feature is when you end up riding a glove that DOESN’T have one. In keeping with the overall lightweight design of this glove, this feature is also made as thin as possible – but it still works as intended.

In terms of protection, the glove offers adequate protection against the grips rubbing and causing sore hands, it feels comfortable even on all day rides. It will also protect your palms if you use your hands as landing gear a little too often. In fact, the palm area is a lot stronger than you’d think just from looking at it – it may be very thin, but this is high quality material and after two months of riding (at least three rides per week), and some impromptu trail work now and again, there is still plenty of life left in our gloves.

As for the back of the hand, there is little to no protection. The material used is thin and breathable, which translates to not a lot standing between you and that pesky tree branch. We did our best (worst) to test this particular aspect, and yes, if you ram your hands straight into a big old branch, the fabric will rip. The good news is that the hole has not gotten any bigger with time, so the glove remains perfectly usable (the thread will not run, probably because of the weave used).

In terms of longevity, after two months of intensive testing, we’d say these are about on par with many other gloves. We have not had any problems with the seams, and apart from a little bit of overall stretching in the materials, the gloves still feel like they did when we got them. Wash them in lukewarm water, let them hang to dry, and they're good to go again. The graphics are a pleasant surprise – contrary to most Royal gloves we have ridden previously, the graphics on the Signature Glove seem to not want to fall off at all.

Things That Could Be Improved

The graphics may not come off, but the same cannot be said for the silicon gripper prints on the index and middle fingers – they start to come off after the first couple of rides, and they are completely gone not long after. Luckily, this doesn’t really affect performance, as there is enough grip left in the basic material to still offer good performance on the brake levers.

It also feels like the fit is just a slight bit looser on these compared to other gloves in the lineup. It’s not half a size, but if you’re usually between sizes, you might want to go for the smaller one (if you like a tight fitting glove).

What’s The Bottom Line?

Royal gloves have been steadily improving over the years, and the 2013 Signature Glove is a well-rounded offering. If you like a glove that lets you really feel the handlebar, but will last longer than a few rides, then the Signature Glove should definitely be on your short list. If your regular ride involves bushwhacking with your knuckles, these won’t be up to the task, but for anything else, you’re good to go. The Royal Signature Glove feels good, looks good, and is tougher than you think.

More information at www.royalracing.com.

Tested: Royal Race Short and Jersey - Form AND Function

Rating:

The Good:

The Bad:

Overall:

Review by Johan Hjord // Pictures by Johan Hjord and Tal Rozow

Royal Racing has been producing mountain bike specific clothing for over 10 years, and as you would suspect from the name, the catalog has always included a well thought-out range for you to race in. Given that the brand was co-founded by Peaty himself, and that he is still very involved with Royal Racing today, that comes as no surprise.

For 2013, Royal has taken a step back towards a somewhat toned down style on the Race line, which is probably a good thing – a couple of the last iterations may have been a bit over the top in terms of graphics. The result is a kit that still really pops, especially in one of the more vivid color ways (the Race line comes in Black/White, Blue/White, or Red/White), but not in a retina-burning kind of way.

Royal Race Short 2013

The real headline for the 2013 Race line is the focus on performance - one of the main objectives behind the design of the new Race line was keeping the weight low. Straight off the shelf, that really becomes obvious, especially when it comes to the short – gone are the thick and heavy materials used in previous years, replaced by quite a unique kind of fabric, which feels almost a bit soft to the touch. However, make no mistake, this is still a heavy duty short – it is not in the least bit flimsy, it just feels really light on the body.

In addition to the novel materials used, the short is very well cut. It seems that Royal have really perfected their cuts over the last couple of years, and you can tell that this short is the product of a lot of actual riding experience. The combination of hard-wearing fabrics and interwoven two-way stretch panels creates a short that always stays in place, and really accommodates rider movements, whether that be pedaling or moving around on the bike. We never experienced any snagging on the saddle, nor does it bulk up anywhere or move around while riding.

The attention to detail and the workmanship are excellent. The seams are of high quality, and the short is really very well finished off. In terms of technical features, the design is fairly minimalistic as you would expect from a garment made to race in – nevertheless you do get two functional pockets with sturdy zippers, so you can at least bring your car keys with you to the bottom of your race run.

The short is cut fairly close to the body around the waist and upper thighs, and it is adjustable at the waist via the main buckle (it is also elastic in the back, again thanks to the use of two-way stretch panels – it all adds up to a snug and solid fit). Sizing is consistent with previous years, and seems very close to what would amount to “standard” across the leisure industry.

Royal Race Jersey 2013

The Race Jersey may appear simple at first glance, but again, Royal had some pretty specific design goals with the Race range and that really comes through on the jersey as well. The material is thin, and there is a lot of ventilation (in the form of different types of weave/fabric used, some perforated with fairly large holes, others with a tighter mesh that nevertheless still breathes really well – Royal calls this the “Airflow mesh”). Actually, there are several different types of weave used in various places on this jersey – that just shows that Royal doesn't take shortcuts when looking to deliver technical riding gear.

Obviously, you won’t want to pick this jersey for long rides during the colder days, unless you intend to run it with a base layer – it will help wick away sweat, but it won’t really protect you from a cold wind.

The stitching is soft and meticulously trimmed, and the neck area is soft and padded, all of which equates to a very comfortable jersey that can easily be worn directly on the skin for warm days – we experienced no chafing or discomfort of any kind.

Although the jersey is lightweight and thin, it does not feel flimsy at all. You would obviously not want to spend your whole day building trail in this thing, but that wouldn't be why you would buy it anyway. We’ve ridden ours pretty hard, including a couple of involuntary soil sampling exercises, and the jersey is no worse for wear.

The graphics are a mix of heat transfer rubberized decals and sublimated, which is basically an advanced form of direct print which fuses the ink with the fabric. They seem to hold up fairly well to abuse, although the big rubberized logo on the chest tends to get slightly discolored after several wash cycles. The same happens with the white rubber strap on the buckle of the Race short. It’s not really a big issue, it is just a bit annoying that some of the highlights don’t stay perfectly white, whereas the sublimated graphics stay absolutely impeccable through many cycles. There are also a couple of minor logos/highlights in the neck area that wear off pretty quickly.

In terms of sizing, the jersey runs true to standard Royal sizes of previous years. The cut is loose enough to accommodate body armor if you wear it, but it’s not baggy to the point of sagging if you don’t. The arms are of good length without getting into Neanderthal dimensions, while the bottom of the jersey is cut at just the right height to ensure it covers your waistline without interfering with the saddle.

What’s The Bottom Line?

Royal has been at this game a long time, and it really shows in the 2013 Race kit. This is not your average slapped-together-polyester-jersey-with-lots-of-decals. No, these are highly technical and functional items that incorporate features that really work when riding. The short is really something special – we’ve found ourselves repeatedly favoring it over other shorts for all kinds of riding, to a point where it has taken the place of our go-to short at the top of the pile. The combination of the new materials used and the superb cut make this short a very comfortable yet hard-wearing item that feels right from the minute you try it on. Full marks on the short.

The jersey does a great job, and with the exception of the slight discoloring of one of the logos (which you could easily avoid by hand-washing it), it is well up for cycles of racing and riding abuse. It breathes exceptionally well, and the cut is spot on – you’ll forget you’re wearing it very quickly. Pretty close to full marks here too.

For more information, visit Royal Racing.

Tested: Sony Action Cam HDR-AS15 - A Solid First Go

Rating:

The Good:

The Bad:

Overall:

Words/Video/Photos by Johan Hjord

The action has really been heating up in the wearable POV video camera market. Once the exclusive domain of GoPro, the last couple of years have seen additional competitors enter the ring which has led to new capabilities and lower prices – in other words a classic case of success breeding success.

Sony is of course a powerhouse in professional media production, and it provides an impressive lineup of pro and semi-pro grade camcorders that often feature among the best in class. We were therefore quite excited to see Sony enter the POV market, and eager to lay our hands on the new Action Cam (HDR-AS15 and HDR-AS10).

First Impressions

Out of the box, the Sony appears well put together, with quality material and workmanship throughout. It ships with few mount options included in the basic case (notably absent is a tilting helmet mount), but those you get work well and feel very solid. The waterproof case is very similar to a GoPro case in terms of the plastic used, and although the door requires significantly less force than that of the GoPro to close, we experienced no leakage throughout our time with the camera.

Main Features

A couple of features stand out on the Action Cam: SteadyShot, hi-FPS super slo-mo recording modes, and built-in WiFi (on HDR-AS15 only – HDR-AS10 is the same camera without WiFi). SteadyShot is Sony’s long-standing take on image stabilization; in the Action Cam, it is the electronic version that is used (which basically means that the camera records from a cropped area of the main sensor, and uses electronic algorithms to compensate for camera movement/shake by moving the cropped area around as the camera moves). Although typically less effective than the optical version (which uses motors to move certain optical elements in a lens to compensate for undesired camera movement/shake), it is also takes up far less space, which is of course crucial in a wearable POV camera. We were keen to see how it would stand up to being bounced down a rough mountain bike trail, as you'll see in the videos, below.

Another new and exciting feature is the arrival of 120 FPS (frames per second) recording at 1280x720 resolution (“standard” HD as opposed to “full” HD at 1920x1080). This translates to super-smooth 4x slomo when played back at 30 FPS – which in turn translates to you being able to share every single little detail of your latest exploits with the world. This does NOT translate to a license for you to make all your web-edits in super slomo from this point on.

Built-in WiFi is a very nice addition, especially at this price point. It allows you to connect a smart phone (via apps that are available both for iPhone and Android platforms today), both for controlling the camera’s settings as well as previewing what the camera is actually looking at on the smart phone’s screen. You can also start and stop recording from the app.

The Sony can take a couple of different types of standard Sony rechargeable batteries (it ships with the highest capacity one), which is great – easy to bring a spare for long days of shooting, and if you already own Sony cameras, you may already have a battery that will work for the Action Cam as well.

There are other recording modes (full-HD 1080 at 30 FPS for example) as well as the ability to take stills or time-lapses (basically a sequence of stills, shot at configurable interval). This latter feature is more of a nice-to-have as opposed to a stand-out feature however, as the implementation here is not particularly impressive (only 2MP resolution used for the stills, and some white balance issues with the time-lapse sequences make them more gimmicks than serious pro tools).

Check out this edit for a look at the video produced by the HDR-AS15 during our tests:

Video shot entirely on the HDR-AS15

In Use

The Action Cam is operated via 3 buttons, a main on/off button that also acts as the “Enter” button while navigating through the in-camera menu settings, and 2 navigational buttons (“Prev” and “Next”). The menu system is well-thought out and easy to navigate through, with no real hidden options or hard-to-get-to tweaks. The built-in LCD is small but informative (it is only used for displaying settings and navigating through menus, it does not display what the camera sees or play back recorded footage), and it is always easy to tell what recording mode you are in, and indeed whether you are recording or not.

If you turn the camera on via the main Start/Stop switch, it starts up and immediately begins recording. This is good if that is what you wanted to do, however if you just wanted to turn the camera on, then you’ll have to stop recording immediately (you’ll have a bunch of little 1 second clips at the end of the day). If you use either of the other 2 buttons to turn the camera on, it powers up without starting to record. When the camera is in the case, the main Start/Stop button is the ONLY one available, so you’ll need to remember to stop the recording if you just wanted to have the camera on standby.

It is simple to choose a recording mode, although note that not all combinations of modes are possible. Because the SteadyShot is electronic, it cannot function when using the wide angle (170 degree) field of view (because the whole sensor is used for the image capture in this case), nor is it available in 120FPS super slomo (presumably because of the available computing power being monopolized to record at that frame rate). The field of view restriction is less of an issue in reality, because the wide angle of view is inherently less sensitive to camera shake, but it is one to keep in mind when choosing to record in super slomo mode – best used for trail side shots with steady hands or a tripod.

Because only one of the 3 buttons are available when the camera is used inside its case, you have to open it up every time you need to change settings. This is where the “PlayMemories” app comes in handy. Power up the camera, start the app on the smartphone, and now you can view and change your recording settings via the phone. Previewing your shot is also very useful, especially if you are setting up the camera on your helmet for the first time for example, or when framing a trail side shot.

The app works well enough, although the WiFi connection tends to drop off every now and then (in which case the easiest fix is to turn WiFi off and then on again on the phone). The image in the app looks good when the camera is in standby mode, but becomes choppy when viewed through the app while recording, presumably because the camera only sends a few frames to the phone while actually recording, but it remains useful for checking framing during a shot if need be. The result (the clip actually recorded by the camera) is not affected by running the app.

Video Quality

The most important aspect of any video recorder is the result – your clips and edits. The Sony delivers in some areas, whilst it let us down in others:

The Good

-SteadyShot is very very good. It is by far the most effective way of stabilizing POV video we have ever seen, superior to wide angles and similar tricks. When mounted on a helmet, it produces very smooth results – so smooth that it is almost unnerving, especially if you are used to the shaky images produced by other cameras.

-Super slomo is excellent. The video produced is very smooth when played back at normal speed, and the camera seems to benefit from the high bitrate used here to produce video of acceptable quality. Note that you lose audio both at 60 and 120 FPS, which is a bit annoying but probably not a deal-breaker (let’s face it, slomo may look cool, but it doesn’t sound very exciting).

-The PlayMemories app and built-in WiFi support (on HDR-AS15 only) work well enough and are useful both for setting up shots and reviewing your footage before leaving a location (the operation to get files off the Action Cam and onto the smartphone for viewing is a bit cumbersome and illogical, but it does function well enough once you figure it out).

-Audio is well controlled, and sounds a bit less “boxy” than we have become accustomed to on other POV cameras. With the waterproof door, sounds is muffled of course, but still audible.

The Bad

-The Action Cam uses far too much compression on the video files it produces. It’s OK in direct sunlight, but once you are in the forest or the weather turns overcast, there are a lot of visible compression artifacts in the result. The colors are also not particularly vivid, and the white balance is definitely a bit too cold for our liking – but these 2 latter issue can be easily addressed in post-production. The compression issue however, cannot. This really is a major let-down, especially given that Sony have used a sensor that has both the resolution and the low-light abilities to deliver really crisp video, as well as Carl Zeiss optics which are usually of high quality. We are hoping a firmware update might address this (by increasing the bitrate of the video files), but at the time of writing, it is what it is. Compared to a GoPro, it appears the bitrate is at least 25% lower on the Sony, and that loss is quite visible in the result.

-Less control over image settings – the Action Cam does not allow the user to play with aspects like White Balance, and its capabilities as a stills/timelapse camera are severely restricted compared to a GoPro HD Hero 3.

Minor Things That Could Be Improved

-The strap that holds the door of the waterproof case (it is not hinged like on the GoPro for example) tends to come loose quite easily, which means you end up dropping the door quite a lot if you don’t pay attention to what you’re doing. The part of the door that covers the lens seems very scratch-resistant, but this may still be an issue over time.

-We’d like to see more accessories out of the box – notably the fact that you have to buy a tilting adaptor for your helmet mount separately is a little bit on the cheap side. The Sony is still attractively priced compared to its direct competition (GoPro HD Hero 3 Black and to some extent the Contour +2, although the latter is lacking the 120FPS mode at 720 resolution), but a tilting helmet mount is really a must. You can also buy replacement doors for the case separately – a flat lens for better shots under water (this is a must if you plan to shoot underwater, the domed port door that ships with the case produces out of focus video when used underwater), as well as a door with a small opening for the microphones to enable better audio while still protecting the camera.

-Not enough mounting options at this point. It’s early in the game for Sony, so it would be unfair to expect it to have the same variety of mounts available as the GoPro for example, but nevertheless, Sony needs to step up its game in the mounts arena if it wants to seriously compete. Notably the legendary chesty mount… (note that the Action Cam mounts on a standard tripod interface, so any third party mount with a standard tripod screw will work great).

Update: after some more time in use, the tilting handlebar mount developed play in the head. We replaced it thinking we had a lemon, but the same problem occurred again with the replacement unit. This particular accessory looks like it has been badly designed. We recommend buying a third-party handlebar mount if you need one.

-The small red LED that indicates that you are recording is all but useless in daylight. You do have the built-in LCD screen to fall back on to check if you are indeed recording, but still, this could have been done better. Also, the audible “beep” and “bee-bee-beep” to indicate starting and stopping recording are not very loud (although a full face helmet will amplify them nicely). We predict many “is it on?” moments…

What's The Bottom Line?

Sony did well for their first foray into the wearable POV camera market. They have delivered some very attractive features at a good price point, in an easy-to-use and robust package. However, the image quality produced by the Action Cam lets it down – it seems strange to us to apply such heavy image compression to a raw image which presumably has all the prerequisites for being excellent (optics, sensor, etc). Unless there is a firmware update to address this issue, 3 stars is all we can reasonably muster at this point – but the potential is there for a far better score.

The GoPro HD Hero 3 looks to have an edge right now in terms of image quality, but the pricetag for getting the same features as the Sony is significantly steeper (the HD3 Black retails for $399, while the Sony ships for $269 – add the cost of a couple of accessories for the Sony and you’re still only at about $300).

For more details, visit sony.com

Additional Media Samples

Variety of clips shot on the HDR-AS15

The long and short of it

Rating:

The Good: Great cut Lightweight Durable Comfortable Subtle design

The Bad: The design may be too subtle for some

Overall:

I have used many versions of Royal's shorts over the years, and always been impressed with the overall quality and fit. Some years/models were better than others, but on the whole, I keep coming back to the brand because of the consistent good performance of their product (including jerseys, BTW).

The SP-247 is the workhorse of the DH/FR range. It's been a staple of the catalogue for many years, as a low-key alternative to the main racing line (called the Blast range, these days). It has many of the features of the racing line, just with much more subdued styling. For 2012, there was a significant overhaul of the shorts, notablythey dropped a lot of weight and bulk. What impressed me the most with the SP-247 this time around though was the cut. It's simply perfect for riding a bike. Overall, the fit is on the slim side (for a baggy short), this translates to less stuff that can snag branches or the front the saddle as you move around on the bike. But although they are quite slim, they never restrict your movements. The elastic panel in the back works very well, keeping your shorts snug and helping avoid giving the girls riding the lift behind you nightmares due to your builder's bum...

They take a beating too, I've had quite a few bails in mine with not much wear to show for it. The ratchet-based waist band is small but very strong, and keeps the shorts on at all times. The graphics seem to hold up to endless ride-wash-ride cycles as well.

In summary, these are labelled DH/FR by Royal, and while they are definitely up for the abuse, they are also slim and lightweight enough to be used as everyday trail shorts. And if you like your gear looking simple yet stylish, look no further (easy to match to ANY jersey of course). If you need eye-watering graphics and colors, probably best to keep looking.

[IMG]http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/94/photos/40241/s780_Johan_2.jpg[/IMG]

The buck stops here

Rating:

The Good: Awesome power, great modulation and feel, easy to set up, top-loading pads, lever shape, looks.

The Bad: Can get a little inconsistent when pads are worn. They require DOT 4 or 5.1 (non-mineral) oil which is a little bit less straightforward to manipulate (requires gloves etc). Bite point adjustment gets sticky after a while.

Overall:

The previous (first)generation Code brake was known for its power, but also had quite a few problems. They were hard to bleed right, and many developed issues like stuck pistons over time. The caps sealing the fluid reservoir were dodgy, leading to fluid seepage which eventually ate away at the finish of the lever body. The 2011 version under review here has addressed all of those problems, and added some new features as well, in a complete overhaul of the whole system.

Starting with the looks, the lever body has been reshaped and now integrates the fluid reservoir in the body itself. It looks sleeker on the bar now. The finish is great, and seems to stay that way as well (1 year on the brakes now). For me, the best thing about this brake is the power, and the lever geometry/shape. It sits very naturally under your finger, and indeed 1 finger is all it ever takes to stop you dead, when needed. They also offer far more modulation than Saints for example, which feel very "on/off" in comparison. The Codes don't bite quite as hard from the beginning of the lever stroke, rather they build up power really consistently as you apply more pressure.

I have never noticed any brake fade on these, including on long alpine runs (and I'm an expert brake dragger too!).You can feel a very slight amount of lever pump if it's hot out and you hit a long and sustained descent with hard braking, the lever can stiffen up ever so slightly, but nothing that really changes the feel of the brake. I have never experienced any loss of power.

The top-loading pads are a boon. Take the wheel off, loosen the little screw that holds the pads in place, slide out the old ones and pop in the new ones - yes they fit right back in without having to wedge the pistons apart like on the previous model for example. With the new pads in there, push the brake spacer between the pads, and the pistons reset at the correct distance from each other (use the specific plastic spacer you should have received with your new brakes to avoid damaging the new pads). A few hard stops from speed is then all it takes to bed in the new pads (organic). The "tri-align" system also makes it dead easy to set up the calipers properly and eliminate any brake rub.

The bite point and lever reach adjusters work well, although I don't really know why anyone would want to dial in a longer free throw before the bite point - it always seems to me that in case you like to run your lever close to the bars, you can just adjust the lever reach, instead of adding a little "slop" to the beginning of the lever stroke. Maybe some people like the feeling of "pre-engaging" the lever without actually activating the brake at all. The bite point adjustment mechanism is finicky, and also gets a bit sticky over time, but nothing too bothersome. You should also add a drop of oil to the reach adjustment knob every now and then to keep it smooth.

Finally, the brakes are much easier to bleed, and also hold their bleed much better. My bike travels upside down on my car, and on the previous generation Code, that would always cause issues with air bubbles entering the hose - that is no longer the case on the current generation.

If you ride a lot of DH/FR, or if you just want one of the most powerful brakes out there, the latest generation Code should definitely be on your shortlist. Power, modulation, ease of set-up and maintenance, lever feel - it's all there. Only the weight-watchers would care about the few grams you could save on running a lighter brake.

Get a grip

Rating:

The Good: Tacky, feel great, just the right size, they never move on the bars - and they look great too (with loads of color options for the lockrings + the custom stuff that is also available).

The Bad: There is nothing bad per se. They do wear out, I typically go through maybe 3-4 pairs per year (riding 2-3 times per week). Note that they still work every bit as well even when they're falling apart, I usually change them out just for that new feeling (and look).

Overall:

It's one of the few constant parts on my bikes over the years, I just never see the need to even try anything else. As good as it gets!

Straight from the Vault

Rating:

The Good: Flat, wide, grippy, thin (but not the thinnest out there), spin quite well, awesome looks (Batman would say: ka-BLING!). Tunable pins.

The Bad: The colored pins don't stay colored for very long, the anodizing goes quickly. There have been some reports of bent pedals which have led to a redesign (leaving a bit more material in certain areas during the CNC process) that should address the issue. (I personally have no reliability issues to report, after 6 solid months of riding FR/DH with them). They may be a bit pricey for some budgets, but they are far from the most expensive pedals out there, and they are certainly worth every penny and cent!

Overall: Bling pedal that backs up its looks with awesome performance. Wide and grippy, these are the perfect flat pedal! If you're the kind of rider who bangs their pedals hard into every rock they see, you may want to look elsewhere, but for everybody else, these rock (pun intended)! Get some!

Spank me, spank me

Rating:

The Good: Superb quality finish (I had the black one), great feeling shape too (a little unusual the 8deg backsweep, but they feel good). Good choice of rise options to make sure you can find one just right for you. And they look awesome!

The Bad: They don't come in green. Get with it Spank!

Overall: Great bar, feels good, and the quality is right up there.

So this guy walks into the bar...

Rating:

The Good: Shape (bend) Looks

The Bad: Slightly uneven finish on the lime green ano I got, can see patches of lighter shades of green here and there (mostly around the logos) Pricey

Overall: Great looking bar, great feeling bar, slightly disappointed to get a less than perfect finish (would have expected flawless quality control from the factory at this price point).

Do-it-all in one tidy package

Rating:

The Good: Perfect all around geo - not too steep, not too slack. Fun bike! Versatility - run it with 2 chainrings and a singlecrown fork for FR/AM/DH, or with a straight up DH build for a playful mini-DH bike. Predictable suspension feel. Frame build quality (hugely improved for 2011)! Postmount brakemounts on the frame. Now available in 3 sizes.

The Bad: 150mm dropouts with 73mm BB - bit of a strange combo. Should ship with the XPi adjustable main pivot of the Izimu - what's the point of a $50 frame upgrade?

Overall: I built this bike up as a do-it-all, running 2 chainrings but also a Boxxer up front, the goal being one bike to pretty much do everything with, from trail riding to DH. The frame replaces the Zuza in the Morewood lineup, although it leans much more towards DH as opposed to the Zuza which was a pure FR frame. Out of the box the frame quality is amazing, with neat welds and stickers now under the clearcoat, it really feels classy. The build was pretty smooth, just the BB needed rethreading on one side. With pretty average components (Boxxer, Saint cranks, X7/X9, dual-ply DHF/DHS Minions), the weight came out at 17.5kg - very respectable. The ride quality is everything you'd expect from a classic Morewood singlepivot - well-sorted geo, the bike feels stable at all times, yet with lots of "pop". It is truly a mini-DH bike - much of the DH character of it's bigger brother the Izimu, but also more playful. It's obviously no plow bike, but at the same time, it does have 180mm of rear travel available, and it makes good use of it when required. It ships with a 350 fox spring, I went up to 400 (I weigh about 90kgs dry). The shock (2011 Van RC) is basic but gets the job done. Good range of adjustment, easy to set up. I've had the bike out on everything from XC/AM group rides to racing DH - the bike has been excellent throughout. It obviously doesn't climb like an AM rig, but if you have the patience, it'll spin up anything. It moves out well under power, no pedalbob worth mentioning (in the middle ring), and as soon as the trails points downwards, you are in the bike's perfect element. Confidence inspiring and fun! Rails corners, very easy to jump, deals with drops very well too. I am looking forward to getting my hands on the XPI adjustable pivot (have ordered the upgrade), with the ability to adjust the BB height and chainstay length the frame will become even more versatile. Time will tell with regards to durability, but hopefully we can expect it to be up to Morewood's usual standards (i.e. almost maintenance free and bullet-proof). Truly good value this frame - modern mini-DH geo, great looks, and offering very versatile build options, all at a very attractive price. If you are a pure racer, look to the Izimu (or the Makulu), other than that - the Zama should satisfy any gravity rider. To conclude, here's a little video clip of the bike in action (going both up and down):

Great all-round FR rig

Rating:

The Good: Dialled geometry, sturdy build, will take a front deraileur and the straight, uninterrupted seat-tube helps get the saddle in the right position for pedalling, great with a Totem/66 for FR-applications, or run it with a DC (Boxxer, 40, 888) for a more DH-oriented build (that can still be pedalled around if you need to). Great jumper and a well balanced bike altogether.

The Bad: Quite short in the TT, so if you don't like that then stay away. Even the L is less than 600mm... It is not extra-ordinarily light either (but you get what you pay for - in this case it is STRENGTH...).

Overall: Fantastic choice for a do-it-all-in-one-bike scenario. With a light build it can deal with AM riding (although a bit too short for a good pedalling position), with a heavy build it is a full-on FR rig. Dialled geo, real fun to ride. Great jumper, can take lots of abuse. Deals with DH as well, although it is nor as slack nor as low as a full-on DH rig, so a bit more tiwtchy through the rough. Buy it if you have outgrown your enduro/AM bike, but still want something you can manage some pedalling/climbing with. Oh and did I mention the dialled Morewood geo? :-)